Saturday, February 27, 2010

Collection Update November 2008

Following the previous posting format, I thought I would have one post with all of the new watches with large pictures and a few brief comments and then a full collection post later today. As you can see from the post, not much traditional dress vintage but rather more divers and kinetics. I do not think this reflects changed taste or a change in direction of the collection but rather that I have exhausted the supply of the core parts of the collection such as Seikomatic, Marvels and similar.

These are the watches acquired during the past three months.

Not many vintage watches in the latest purchases. I seem to have most bases covered so there are not much new interesting things coming up. These three are however quite good. First the marvel with the textured dial. If you saw the separate slideshow post, you have seen the excellent condition of this watch with the polished and matt contrasting oarst of the case intact. The watch also has the fancier copper coloured movement.
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The Seikomatic is rather unusual with the two-toned dial.
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A Skyliner with a nice 3D effect with the contoured dial and the protruding hour markers.
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This watch is very interesting as Seikos first electronic watch from 1968. If you want to know more, check out the Nagano post on gmtplusnine.
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Next up is two quite different 5626 calibers from the opposite side of the scale. The top one is the chronometer certified KS and the other one if the plain LM deluxe. The KS probably cost twice as much when new and four times as much today but there is not much difference between these watches
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A bunch of colourful kinetic divers. As mentioned in the separate post last week, these are very well made but surprisingly cheap watches.
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I thought I should get a 6105 to see what all the fuzz was about. A nice watch, no doubt.
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The next pile is some Alpinists and Alpinist wannabees. The first one is the most real one, a SSASS 8F56. The colour if this dial is excellent and together with the high end 8F56 quartz caliber, this is a real explorers watch.
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A real Alpinist without the Alpinist name. The 4M15 South East Asian Sports version. Exactly the same as the 4M15 Alpinist but without the logos.
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This one, an 5M42 caliber AGS Spirit that only looks like an Alpinist.
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This is one of the top watches in this pack. A handwind 4S24 from the Laurel series. A fantastic watch with a sterling silver case and a real gold bezel. The texture of the dial does not reall come through in this photo but is rellay brings life to the dial. The blued hands adds an extra touch of 30s styling. I would have appreciated a bit more cohesion in the fonts though.
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This is the Gabe pack of five 6106-54XX watches. All in great restored condition. I was very lucky to be able to acquire these.
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A few of the 51XX series in this pack as well. I like the 51XX, a technically advanced but underappreciated caliber. Teh first one is a Sports style 5126 caliber. A very well made solid watch, but with a slightly strange bezel design. The dial is one of these very deep blue dials that Seiko is so good at making.
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The second 51XX series is a 5146 30j hi-beat Presmatic, as usual with the hex crown inset quickset button. It does not show very well in this picture, but the crystal is faceted, with three horisontal facets.
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This is the original Fieldmaster. A 5M22 kinetic caliber with a titanium case. A very comfortable watch. This also comes in a variant with a fully lumed dial.
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A SKJ137 kinetic diver purchased from Molle. A fantastic watch even if I can never get the deeply jade green dial to photograph well. It also has one of my fancier straps, a Hirsch with molded and adjustable ends.
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A lot of Kinetics in this update. They do not seem to be very appreciated in Japan so they are quite cheap, even if they were usually high end and expensive when new. A change of capacitor to the new long life versions and you have a great watch. This is a 5M45 from the SUS series with a GMT hand. Same caliber as the old Landmasters and Flightmasters but a fraction of the price. This watch also has a very nice heavy SS bracelet.
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Back to the normal vintage stuff with a 6117 Navigator. This is the most common grey dial version but still a very well designed watch in great condition.
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The collection has always missed a good rally sports watch so this 6119 fit the hole perfectly. Unfortunately, it comes with the thick concave crystal that does not photograph well so the blue dial does not come out as well as it should.
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The two-tone dial variant of the 6139 "Speedtimer" version. I like the contrast between the dressy grey-black and the sportier hands and text.
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I had been looking for a white dial diver and this mid-size 6458 seemed like an excellent purchase. Ty has an excellent post on the 7458/6458 series divers.
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This is the Giugiaro 7C43 diver. A very cool offset design but unfortunately plagued with lousy plastics in the shroud. The plastic usually dries out and cracks only after a few years, even with very careful use and storage. The watch originally came with a specially made squarish strap but most of Seikos 18mm straps match quite well.
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A 7N35 quartz diver bought for the pearly dial and funny bezel. Cost almost nothing so it can wait for one of the daughters to get interested in watches.
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I have been looking for a cool Wired watch. This one is from one of the earlier Wired XYZ series from 2004. As most of the Wired watches, this was only made in a very small series for a limited time. Only drawback is the relatively pedestrian 7T92 caliber.
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I got two watches from Molle with my SKJ diver. A Sportsmatic and an Actus, both in great shape.
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One of my few LCD quartz watches. I bought this one for the dot-matrix part of the dial which has some very cool effects.
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An unintersting 5606 bought only for the faceted blue/purple crystal, which I thought might fit one of my Vanacs.
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/ martin

Collection Update February 2010

I decided to do a small intermediate update, for which the reason will be clear when the full collection post goes up later today. This update also contains a few items, which have been stored or forgotten and therefore not included in previous posts.


GS and KS

I have previously not focused on GS level watches as I think the price difference between a good GS and an excellent KS has been too large. There are however a few exceptions where a KS is just not sufficient. The easy example is the 61 series GS which have no corresponding KS level. I already have a 6145 GS in the standard GS design but I think the version with the block style indices and silver dial also needs to be considered.
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The second crucial GS is the 6155/6 GS special series. Tweaked to an accuracy of -2/+4 s/day it is only ever beaten by the 61VFA and 45VFA at -2/+2 s/day. I have not timed this watch but it looks like it is running well. The dial is a bit aged but the 6156 is not a very rare watch so replacement dials should be available.
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If accuracy is a requirement and quartz does not scare you, the 9F83 caliber at 10s per year is a fair choice. It has even been tweaked to 5s in the SBGT027. This SBGT003 is an early example of the modern series of 9F83 watches.
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GMT+9 article about the SBGT027 is here.
http://www.gmtplusnine.com/2008/06/14/new-seiko-grand-seiko-sbgt027-5-seconds-per-year-accuracy/

The 45 series hi beat watches is one of Seikos best handwind calibers. Standard KS design is a classic 7000 case.
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7016

The 7016 comes in range of colour variants and two different 5000-series cases (as well as a round case style). I like this dark grey version with the blue accent, which brings a bit of life to the design. It also has the angled 5000 case which is a bit more 70-ish than the rounded 5010 version. I am never quite sure about the correct colour of the subdial hands but this black and white combo is at least the most common style.
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I did a previous post about this watch with a few more pictures.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/78440/message/1266753712/7016+mystery


Jose 7002 Diver Mods

Jose Sotto, watchcooking on ebay, has made a few recognisable diver mods in the last few years. The first ones were 6309s a few years ago but the new ones are 7002s, presumably as the prices of 6309s have risen and it is harder to make the figures add up. There must be at least USD 100 in parts and labour in one of these mods. I guess the starting watches are those that are not sellable otherwise but the end result looks really nice. The graded dials in vibrant colours and the hours markers at the back of the crystal are excellent touches.
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Here is a good post about the previous 6309 mods.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/78440/message/1196597446/Jose+Sotto+has+been+%26quot%3Bcooking+for+me+again%26quot%3B-For+starters+we+had-%26gt%3B%26gt%3B%26gt%3B%26gt%3B%26gt%3B%26gt%3B%26gt


Crystal Chronometer

I will just refer to my article below for these chronometers. As an update, there are now only three left with two of them running within a few minutes accuracy.
CrystalChronos.jpg

http://www.network54.com/Forum/78440/message/1198952723/Seiko+Quartz+history+and+the+Crystal+Chronometer+%28many+pics%29


Brochures and merchandise

I got the below items as a set at auction. The first one is a Seiko export marketing brochure in English from the late 60s with sales figures and fancy pictures of machines and factories. The second one is an early 60s spare part manual including pages on the 603 Seikomatic, Lord Marvel, Champion and others. I am not sure why Seiko made one of these as their sales outside of Japan at that time must have been minimal.
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This is a neat 12 watch Italian Seiko Kinetic watch portfolio. Another 50 or so of these and the collection can go travelling.
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These are Japanese display stands. From the design, I would guess that they are from the mid to late 60s.
DisplayStands.jpg


I do not know how Seiko rates their dealers but with more than 500 purchases in 5 years, I do not feel like am cheating when using these dealer signs. My accountant/wife wishes that there was more selling and less buying though.
DealerSign1.jpg
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/ martin